the far-northern outpost of Burgundy run by Patrick and Isabelle
enhances the wine’s natural acidity and structure
and firm but polished tannins
and dark fruit on a powerful
and quince with electric acidity that keeps it dancing
Bartolo Mascarello, Freisa, 2011 so061624 camino del albarino offer the far-northern outpost of BurgundyFreisa is one of Piedmont's great oddball grapesa relative of Nebbiolo that's wild, a little rustic, sometimes faintly fizzy or off dry, and adored by insiders. In Bartolo Mascarello's hands it's dry, structured, and serious, made exactly like their Barolo: organic farming, native yeasts, big old casks. The 2011 has had over a decade in bottle, which is exactly what tames Freisa's youthful edge into something more harmonious and savory. A rare, back